The West Buttress route was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. A steady and gradual ascent over a period of days is undertaken with emphasis on proper acclimatization for team members.
It is not considered a highly technical climb, because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing on the route. Rather, it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills.
In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000f (35- 45+ degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender.
An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley is truly a major expedition and unforgettable learning experience!
It is not considered a highly technical climb, because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing on the route. Rather, it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills.
In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000f (35- 45+ degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender.
An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley is truly a major expedition and unforgettable learning experience!
Information coming soon.
The weather on Denali is unpredictable, and thought to be the coldest mountain on earth. It is well know to throw everything at you and then some, we can guarantee that you will see some cold blowing days mixed with sunny refreshing days, mixed with anything else you can imagine. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions and we want you to be prepared for rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success.
Pack & Bags
Upper Body
We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.
Lower Body
We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
Feet
Miscellaneous
Toilet
Personal Medications
Utensils
Optional Items
Travel Documents
Pre-Trip Checklist
Pack & Bags
- 2 DUFFEL BAG(S): A 120+ liter bag made of tough material.
- BACKPACK: A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. Your pack must be large enough for your layers, climbing gear, and food, as well as a portion of your tent and group load (kitchen equipment).
- DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.
- SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated to 0° to -20° F. Either goose down or synthetic, with ample room for movement. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatory.
- COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
- SLEEPING PAD - INFLATABLE: A full-length inflatable pad.
- SLEEPING PAD - CLOSED FOAM: A second full-length or 3/4 length closed cell foam pad. This pad is used in combination with the first sleeping pad. You will be happy to have both!
- ICE AXE/PICK: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
- CLIMBING HARNESS: HARNESS IS NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP
- HELMET: Should be a climbing certified helmet.
- CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal.
- TENT: four season
- TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible poles are preferred. Larger baskets work well with deep snow. Ski poles will also work.
- Head: Keep your Cabeza warm
- Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
- BUFF / NECK GAITER / BALACLAVA: One item for face protection is required. Our primary recommendation is the Buff. A neck gaiter or balaclava is also acceptable.
- BALL CAP OR SUN HAT
- Box GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.
- GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather.
- HEADLAMP: Be sure to begin the program with fresh batteries.
- Hands: Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.
- LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: One pair of fleece, soft-shell or wind-stopper gloves.
- MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant, insulated mountain gloves.
- HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
Upper Body
We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.
- 2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Quarter zip styles will allow for better temperature regulation. We recommend light colors, which best reflect the intense sun on hot days.
- INSULATING LAYER - LIGHTWEIGHT
- INSULATING LAYER - MEDIUM WEIGHT
- HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.
- INSULATED PARKA with HOOD:
- HIKING SHIRT (OPTIONAL): For hot days in mid-summer, we recommend a lightweight, synthetic shirt, either long or short sleeves. Long sleeves are preferred for sun protection.
Lower Body
We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
- 2 - 3 UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers.
- LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Synthetic or wool.
- CLIMBING PANT: Soft-shell climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them in combination with the base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days. No cotton!!
- RAIN PANT (HARD SHELL): A waterproof pant with 3/4 side zippers (sometimes called 7/8 or full side zips) are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons.
- SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANT: A synthetic primaloft pant.
- LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions.
Feet
- MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Hybrid boots are the preferred choice on Aconcagua. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather-only mountaineering boots are not recommended.
- HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.
- LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.
- SANDALS: These are used during river crossings and should hold securely to the foot. There is also a shower at Basecamp.
- 2 PAIR OF TREKKING SOCKS: Lightweight hiking socks for the trek to Basecamp.
- 3 PAIR OF CLIMBING SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction. Keep a clean pair for summit day, you will be happy you did!
- GAITERS: large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots.
Miscellaneous
- LIP BALM: We recommend SPF 15 or higher.
- SUNSCREEN: We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
- MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
- CHEMICAL HAND and TOE WARMERS
- 2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: Hard-sided, screw-top, one-liter water bottles with wide mouths are required.
- INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS: These help prevent liquids from freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.
- WATER PURIFICATION SYSTEM
- GARBAGE BAGS (LARGE): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
- EAR PLUGS
- 2 SETS ALKALINE BATTERIES
- 2 LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.
- STUFF SACKS
- CAMERA: Don't forget your camera!
- THERMOS: High quality, lightweight, unbreakable 1/2 to 1 quart.
- COUGH DROPS
- DUCT TAPE: A small roll of duct tape always comes in handy for repairs.
Toilet
- TOOTHBRUSH AND TOOTHPASTE
- BABY WIPES
- HAND SANITIZER(S): Personal size (2 oz.) bottle.
- 2 ROLLS OF TOILET PAPER
- PEE BOTTLE (PEE FUNNEL FOR WOMEN): You are not going to want to get out of your tent at night. . .
- BAND-AIDS
- ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL
- BLISTER TREATMENT
- ANTACIDS
- IMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)
- PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)
- SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
Personal Medications
- ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.
- TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain
- ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitiude Illness
- DEXAMETHAZONE: For HACE.
Utensils
- BOWL
- INSULATED MUG
- SPOON or SPORK
- POCKETKNIFE
Optional Items
- HIKING SHORTS: Good for lower elevations and warm, sunny days.
- READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL
- MUSIC PLAYER
Travel Documents
- PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.
- COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.
- COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY
- EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS
Pre-Trip Checklist
- Purchase travel insurance.
- Return the Registration Packet
- Purchase airplane tickets.
- Reserve rental equipment.
- Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
Information coming soon.
Information coming soon.
Information coming soon.
Information coming soon.
Information coming soon.